Morocco: The rise of female surf culture

I have done my fair share of surf stories over the years. Having grown up by the sea and surrounded by 90’s surf and skate culture its an area that is close to my heart. Getting to travel to Morocco to photograph one of the top local female surfers, Maryam el Gardoum, was a real treat. We flew into Agadir and travelled up to Tamraght, meeting Maryam in Taghazout. We also ventured up to Imsouane, a spot that was also very popular with those seeking out surf, although an area that has recently made headlines after a government crackdown on illegal development leading the surf town that had sprung up there to be dramatically demolished with bulldozers. I had taken my drone with me havign read mixed messages on the laws regarding drones – but it was impounded at the airport which left me little option for getting good aerials and establishing shots. I’d opted to take this rather than an underwater housing and kicked myself for that decision, although getting decent shots with an underwater housing takes time, the right conditions and additional kit (fins, face mask etc). So instead I focused more on the day to day of surf culture in the area. Taghazout was oringally a small fishing village and whilst the fishermen do still head out of a morning – arguably surfing and surf tourism are now its main industry – with cafes, bars, surf schools and hostels all popping up to support the trade.

Maryam is one of those force of nature personalities who through persistence and skill is driving forward the sport with female Moroccans in what has traditionally be quite a conservative society. She has had to fight for her right to surf – facing the prejudices that it is not ‘a serious sport’ and will lead to other activites such as smoking and drinking – recreations that would fly in the face of her Muslim upbringing. She’s also had to contend with the attitude of some of her fellow surfers; men who see a woman’s place as in the kitchen rather than enjoying the ocean. Thankfully those attitudes are disappearing and that partly comes down to people like Maryam forging the path for female Muslim surfers. Hopefully for sake of the sport, where she has gone, others may follow.